Presidio – Here in the Lone Star State, the Big Bend region is beyond beautiful, and if you’ve never traveled through the Big Bend Ranch State Park, it too is breathtaking.
FM170 borders the southern end of the park, between Lajitas and Presidio and it’s one of my favorite roads in Texas. And as you make your way into Presidio, you’ll come across Fort Leaton, an adobe refuge that’s been sitting here since 1848. “It’s unique to Texas, and I really dig that about it,” said Park Superintendent Tom Forwood.
Tom is a Philly born history fanatic who worked in Montana for 23 years before taking a job in Texas. “Just the landscape was my first impression of the place,” said Forwood. “I got out and I was like, ‘Wow’.”
No trees, no grass, lots of sun, and even more history. “This is a really cool spot from a historic perspective because this is what’s called the La Junta, which is kind of the joining or the coming together, and that is referring to the Rio Conchos coming out of Mexico and the Rio Grande coming down out of New Mexico into Texas, along the border,” Said Forwood. “And it’s really important because this is the two major river drainages of the Chihuahuan Desert meeting right here at Presidio. So, this is a place that humans have settled for probably thousands of years.”
Ben Leaton and his wife Juana Pedraza are credited with creating Fort Leaton in order to establish a trading post in the area. How they went about doing it is definitely a story out of the lawless Wild West.
“So, in 1848, he kind of established this,” said Forwood. “And a lot of it was pretty crooked, to be really honest. With a lot of these frontier folks that did well, they didn’t do well by being nice people. They did well by kind of rooking folks over wherever they could. He worked with kind of a corrupt official in the area, a local governor, to create some false land claims. And they actually kicked local, little small farmers out and such to build his property up. And then he built this fort on this kind of prominence that overlooked the river plain here. You have to think of it more like a fortified trading post than as an actual military fort. But with that said, because the military didn’t have a set fort in this region, this was a major place that they’d utilize. They basically paid a kind of station here for long periods of time, in some cases throughout.”
Sitting right across the river from Ojinaga, Mexico, the biggest town in this part of the world until you get to Odessa, the fort supported locals living on both sides of the border for several decades. “It’s really important to understand some of our connections to our southern neighbors,” said Forwood. “I mean, this is a real representation of how intertwined a lot of this border country is between Texas and Mexico. And there’s a lot of animosity now between some of that, which is kind of a bummer because this is a rich country with a lot of shared history, and people should understand there’s more to that story. There’s a lot of history between our two countries, and this is a really cool tie-in point where that culture still is infused on both sides of the border.”
The fort closed in 1884 and was abandoned in 1925. The state acquired it in 1967 and rebuilt most of this massive adobe complex. “This is one of the older parts of the fort that’s intact,” said Forwood. “This is the servant’s quarters. There’s not a lot of creature comforts. The walls aren’t plastered. They aren’t painted or whitewashed as they would’ve done. It’s really trimmed down,” said Tom as we toured the fort.
Other parts of the fort were a little more extravagant. “As we come in here, you’re going to get a really different impression,” said Forwood. “This is actually probably one of the nicer rooms in the whole fort because this is the formal parlor. And the formal parlor is where you’re going to basically have your greeting dignitaries, business associates, less intimate folks. So, people that aren’t like part of your family are good friends. And it’s kind of meant to impress. So, you walk in, you’ve got chandeliers, you’ve got the only working fireplace left in the fort, too, by the way. And they would’ve kept the whitewash up a lot better than most of the fort. So, it’s to give you, for lack of a better term, opulence in that day and age, especially in a frontier area.”
In order to get goods all the way to west Texas back in 1848, you couldn’t just load up the truck to take things to the fort, instead they used something much, much bigger. “When the fort first started, a lot of the stagecoach operation wasn’t really set up in this part of the West,” said Forwood.” So, how people got things around were on these huge oxcarts that the Spanish had brought in the 1500s called carreta, and this is actually a small one. The wheels would go anywhere from like this one, at about six feet, to nine feet high.”
Being able to see what it took to establish and survive in this part of the Lone Star State really makes you appreciate the modern conveniences we have today. The folks that made life work back then and even today truly are one of kind. “I think it’s an important stop on this part of the state,” said Forwood. “And it’s part of the country too, to be honest. People, not just Texans and beyond, because this is a part of the state everybody should see at least once,” said Tom.